ASIANOVERLAND.NET SYDNEY TO LONDON DAY 56: KUALA LUMPUR TO FRASER’S HILL, MALAYSIA

Genting Highlands, Cameron Highlands and Fraser’s Hill are all hill station retreats in the Titiwangsa Range, which were developed to escape or retreat from the Malaysian heat and humidity, and the hustle and bustle of city life. I managed to select Fraser’s Hill as our Malay Peninsula hill station retreat, with the result that I found the second worst accommodation on the entire Asian Overland (the worst being the Black Coffee “Hotel” in Chengdu, Sichuan, China, in 1985).

The Titiwangsa Range (Big Range) is the chain of mountains that forms the backbone of the Malay Peninsula. The northern part of the range is in southern Thailand, where it is known as Sankalakhiri Range. The range acts as a natural divider 480 km from north to south, dividing Peninsular Malaysia, as well as southern Thailand, into east and west coast regions.

This mountain range is the southern part of the Tenasserim Hills system, the Indo-Malayan mountain range, 1,700 km from Tibet into the Malay Peninsula. The contrasting silver lining at the other end of the Himalayan range, is the best accommodation on the Asian Overland, the Dubloo Houseboats on Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir.

Fraser’s Hill is a hill resort in Pahang, 100 km north of Kuala Lumpur, named after Louis James Fraser (1841–1916), a Scottish trader and accountant. After a failed gold mining venture in Australia, he migrated to the Federated Malay States in 1890 and searched for valuable minerals such as gold. He found an ancient forest of moss-draped trees and ferns that resembled prehistoric forests, in a cloud layer that kept the vegetation constantly moist. At the same time, Fraser found rich tin deposits on the hill, and recruited Chinese miners to open a mine (the current location of Fraser's Hill golf course). The tin ore was depleted quickly by 1913, mining activity declined, and many Chinese miners and farmers moved away from the town.

Fraser's Hill is in one of Peninsular Malaysia's few pristine forests. Over 10% of all plant species discovered in Peninsular Malaysia are located in Fraser's Hill, which is home to 952 indigenous species and 36 endemic species. Thirteen of these were considered extinct and had not been found again for more than 60 years. It is also one of only three places in the world where the rare Trig Oak was discovered.

The most dominant group of animals found on Fraser's Hill are invertebrates: ants, bees, beetles, cicadas, grasshoppers, moths, spiders and termites, which play an important role in sustaining a healthy ecosystem. According to the IUCN Red List, as of 2013, three mammals are listed as endangered: the Malayan tapir, the siamang and the Malayan tiger, while two mammals were listed as vulnerable—the serow and the Malayan sun bear. 

Fraser's Hill hosts 250 migratory and residential bird species. Some migrate from the harsh winter in Russia, China and Japan to Fraser's Hill. Others rest at Fraser's Hill for a few months before flying south to Australia and New Zealand for their warmer climate. Birdlife International has designated this area as an important bird area because of its large number of species.

The 1970’s and 1980's saw a surge in Government promoted “white elephant” building development at Fraser’s Hill. However, the expansion of building development negatively impacted the environment with deforestation, more species facing extinction, and water pollution affecting the lives of the Orang Asli (first people) and residents in other villages. 

It was not until May 2015 that The Star reported that Fraser’s Hill resorts had fallen into disrepair because of a lack of maintenance coupled with infrequent collection of rubbish, and abandoned bungalows taken over by squatters. I could have told them about the state of disrepair, mould and lack of maintenance in 2002, but better late than never.

After nearly 500 years of colonial rule, indigenous Malay rulers could make some mistakes exercising power without colonial oversight (which was also corrupt). But Malaysian jokes about local corruption, highlight some notable mistakes:

(1) white elephant building developments like Fraser's Hill, which may have appeared productive in the construction phase, but lacked follow-up in the operational and maintenance phases, and ignored environmental effects;

(2) Prime Minister Mahathir sacked nearly all members of the Court of Appeal and the Federal Court, and held “boot camps” for judges to be instructed to follow government decisions, instead of the Rule of Law; 

(3) Government officials including former Prime Minister Najib, free of independent oversight, had unfettered access to steal Malaysian assets through 1MDB and Labuan IBFC for his own corrupt use (Najib has been sentenced to 12 years imprisonment so far): and

(4) "PUBLIC PROSECUTOR V GOLDMAN SACHS INTERNATIONAL
(Company No.: 02263951)
(a company incorporated the United Kingdom)

That you, Goldman Sachs International (Company No.: 02263951) (a company incorporated the United Kingdom), as the Bookrunner and Arranger for the sale of US$1,750,000,000 5.99% Guaranteed Notes due 2022 to be issued by 1MDB Energy Limited (Company No.: LL08815) (a company incorporated in the Federal Territory of Labuan, Malaysia) (“the Notes”), between 19 March 2012 to 25 September 2012, at 1Malaysia Development Berhad (“1MDB”), Level 8, Menara IMC, No. 8, Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur, in the Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur, directly in connection with the sale of the Notes, omitted to state the following material facts, ..."

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