ASIANOVERLAND.NET SYDNEY TO LONDON  DAY 115/322/27: DAL LAKE TO NISHAT BAGH, KASHMIR, INDIA

August 1980 and 14th October, 1980

One of the most popular places to visit in Srinagar is across the eastern side of Dal Lake, Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal garden built by Asif Khan in 1633. It is the largest Mughal garden in the Kashmir Valley. 

Although the layout of Nishat Bagh was based on Persian gardens, it had to be remodelled to fit the topographic and water source conditions in the Kashmir valley. The plan, instead of being central with four radiating arms in a square pattern, was changed to an axial stream flow design to fit the mountain with water source originating at the top of the hill end. This resulted a rectangular Kashmiri layout rather than a square Persian layout.

An anecdote is told of the jealousy of the Emperor Shah Jahan on seeing such a beautiful garden, which led to the abandonment of the garden for some time.

When Shah Jahan saw the garden after its completion in 1633, he expressed great appreciation of its beauty. He expressed his delight three times to Asif Khan, his father-in-law, in the hope that he would make a gift of it to him. As no such offer was forthcoming from Asif Khan, Shah Jahan ordered that the water supply to the garden be cut off. Then, for some time, the garden was deserted.

Asif Khan was desolate and heartbroken. When he was resting under the shade of a tree, in one of the terraces, his servant was bold enough to turn on the water supply. When Asif Khan heard the sound of water and the fountains in action, he was startled and immediately ordered the disconnection of the water supply as he feared the worst reaction from the Emperor for this wanton act of disobedience. Fortunately for the servant and Khan, Shah Jahan was not disturbed or annoyed by the disobedience of his orders. Instead, he approved of the servant’s loyal service to his master, and ordered the full restoration rights for the supply of water to the garden.

The Mughal Garden in Srinagar is still a wonder to behold, and is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world.

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