ASIANOVERLAND.NET SYDNEY TO LONDON  DAY 116/323/28: SRINAGAR TO LADAKH, KASHMIR, INDIA

August 1980, 15 October, 1980 and July 1987

Ladakh (“Little Tibet”) is part of the larger Kashmir region, which has been disputed by India, Pakistan, and China since 1947. It is north of the Himalayas, extending from  the Karakoram range to its north, to the Great Himalayas south of Ladakh. The eastern part of Ladakh, consisting of the Aksai Chin plains, is claimed by the Indian Government as part of Ladakh, but has been under Chinese control since 1962.

In ancient times, Ladakh gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of the Silk Road and other important trade routes. Since the Chinese authorities closed the borders between Tibet and Ladakh in the 1960s, international trade in this area has dwindled.

The largest town in Ladakh is Leh, followed by Kargil. The Leh district contains the Indus  river valley. 

In contrast to Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh has a non-Muslim majority, being Muslims (46%), Tibetan Buddhists (40%) and Hindus (12%). Ladakh is one of the most sparsely populated regions in India. Its culture and history are closely related to that of Tibet, and it is known as "Little Tibet".

On the drive up the mountains towards Leh, is the Dubloo fishing shack at Sonamarg. Sonamarg is the historical gateway on the ancient Silk Road, connecting Kashmir with Tibet. Habib offered the use of the Dubloo fishing shack to us on many occasions, and we finally managed to visit, fish and stay there on our honeymoon in 1987. Fishing is not permitted by the locals, as fishing permits in Kashmir are only given to foreign tourists.

The trout fishing was wonderful, as the Dubloo boys did everything required, put the bait on, waited patiently, unsnag their lines, put the bait back on … and they only called me when they had a trout on the line, which I would dutifully reel in for them to net. Corrie, on the other hand, did all her own fishing, and was far more successful than me, partly because the local boys were always on hand to immediately unsnag her fishing line, and partly because she is far more patient than me.

While the boys cleaned the fresh trout, Habib put on the portable gas burner, and  cooked the fresh trout in ghee and garlic on the spot. Fantastic. One of the most memorable and freshest meals ever.

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